First Nomadic Migration – Spring 2023
Whispers of the Zagros
In early May 2023, I joined the Bakhtiari nomads for my first experience of the Kooch — their seasonal migration on foot through the Zagros Mountains. We started in the foothills near Lali in southern Iran and walked for around ten days through rivers, forests, and steep mountain passes. The altitude changed from 700 to 2,850 metres, and with it, the weather, landscape, and rhythm of life.
This was my first time living with the nomads, and I didn’t know their language. I was alone, walking beside them as they moved their families and animals toward their summer pastures. The journey was very tough, both physically and emotionally. But it was also beautiful — a highlight was sitting under a sky full of stars beside the fire, sharing a silent night with the tribe. My main goal was to finish the full trail with them, but I got food poisoning and had to stop after completing about one-third of the route. I was taken to the city for treatment and couldn’t return. At first, I felt I had failed. But in many ways, this journey gave me much more than I expected. I saw how the Bakhtiari people survive in such a hard environment. I felt their strength and pride. I learned how to face nature’s challenges. And most importantly, I built a connection with the nomads that prepared me for future journeys.
I didn’t reach the end — but I found the beginning
This was my first time living with the nomads, and I didn’t know their language. I was alone, walking beside them as they moved their families and animals toward their summer pastures. The journey was very tough, both physically and emotionally. But it was also beautiful — a highlight was sitting under a sky full of stars beside the fire, sharing a silent night with the tribe. My main goal was to finish the full trail with them, but I got food poisoning and had to stop after completing about one-third of the route. I was taken to the city for treatment and couldn’t return. At first, I felt I had failed. But in many ways, this journey gave me much more than I expected. I saw how the Bakhtiari people survive in such a hard environment. I felt their strength and pride. I learned how to face nature’s challenges. And most importantly, I built a connection with the nomads that prepared me for future journeys.
