The Changing Rhythm

Chapter 4 (Winter 2026)

For generations, Bakhtiari families have migrated twice each year between their winter pastures (Qishlaq) and summer pastures (Yeylaq), traveling from the lowlands of Khuzestan, near the Persian Gulf, to the highest valleys of the Zagros Mountains. Today, however, climate change is reshaping this ancient tradition. The cycle of two annual migrations has gradually become four shorter movements, with the timing and route of each one determined by changing environmental conditions.

Many families no longer wait for the arrival of spring. Instead, they begin their journey several weeks earlier, in winter, climbing only part of the way into the mountains. The high pastures remain buried beneath deep snow and there is no grass for their flocks. As a result, they have to stay at mid-elevations until the weather allows them to continue.

Mohammadyar’s family followed the ancient trail and continued the migration on foot. However, two more families disappeared from the route.

Mohammadyar’s brother, Aliyar, had abandoned the nomadic way of life and entrusted part of his flock to him before settling permanently. Their younger brother, Rasoul, sold all of his sheep and goats and moved to a settlement on the outskirts of a nearby town, where he now earnt a living as a livestock trader.

This migration took place when Iran was attacked for the third time on 28 February 2026. Even so, the Bakhtiari continued their seasonal migration with the same determination that had guided earlier generations along this route. While the world beyond the mountains was caught up in war, life along the traditional route continued to follow its steady and ancient rhythm.